2017年12月14日 00:58:44|来源:国际在线|编辑:wo沃科技
Hakka people often find excuses for the lack of presentation for their food, especially compared with their seafood-rich neighbors of Chaozhou and Shantou, where more attention is paid to how dishes are prepared and presented.跟海味十足的潮州菜和汕头菜比起来,客家菜显得有些默默无闻,前两者食材讲究,制作精良,上菜时摆盘也很精美,而客家菜却不怎么讲究这些,这样说来,默默无闻也就情有可原了。For an outsider like me, it is in this area that Hakka food stands out. It may not be the best-looking cuisine in the vast array of Chinese gastronomy, but it is surely a strong contender for the best tasting. It reminds one of the kind of food a mother cooks for her child who is visiting after a long absence from home.可是在我这个外人眼中,客家菜也正因此才变得引人注目。在中国的各色菜系中,客家菜不是最有卖相的,但是其味道绝不输给任何菜系。品尝客家菜,会让你想起母亲的味道,一道道菜就像是母亲为远游归来的孩子烹饪的美食。The Hakka idea of feasting is mostly meat. Its salt-roasted chicken has been incorporated into Cantonese cuisine as a standard. The origin of bean curd stuffed with a small meatball goes back to the time before the Hakka moved away from the Central Plains. Unlikely as it seems, this famous dish is a variation of jiaozi, but since wheat was hard to come by in South China, the Hakka had to make do with tofu.在客家人眼里,宴席主要就是要吃肉。客家菜里的盐焗鸡已经被纳入经典粤菜。豆腐丸的起源可以追溯客家人从中原迁离之前。让人感到不可思议的是,这个著名的菜肴其实是饺子的变形,因为南方不太种植小麦,客家不得不用豆腐来代替。Like its dialect, the Hakka cuisine has traces of their connection to the landlocked north. The emphasis on meat could be a testament to hard times when meat was a luxury and reserved for only the rarest of occasions. But dishes like pork with salted vegetables have gained popularity across the nation. It is, however, pork tripe stewed chicken, among the Hakka staples, that was relatively unknown to me and it proved to be delicious beyond description.就像客家方言一样,客家菜也处处体现着与北方内陆地区的密切关系。客家菜对于肉的重视明了,在困难时期,肉是奢侈品,只有在很重要场合才能吃到。但是像咸菜焖猪肉这样的菜肴在全国都很受欢迎。还有一道我不太熟悉的客家主食,叫做猪肚炖鸡,也是美味到无法形容。Vegetarians need not despair. Traditionally, much of the Hakka diet is sourced from the earth. It might have been out of necessity, but it has been honed into a culinary art. Tell your host that you prefer a healthy portion of vegetarian food and you#39;ll be surprised at the variety that will greet you and your palate.素食者也不需要失望。传统上,大部分的客家食材都是从地里挖的。这可能是不得已而为之,但制作这些食材也已经成为了一门烹饪艺术。跟招待你的客家人说明你喜欢健康的素食,那么你就会吃惊地发现居然有这么多吃法,而且你的味蕾也会有非同一般的享受。The most dramatic part of my trip to Meizhou involved a snack called yanmian, literally pickled noodle. Filmmaker Zhang Yibai, known for his epicurean knowledge, texted us about a noodle shop in downtown Meizhou that had impressed him a year earlier. Our host called every one of his friends and nobody had heard of this place. One night, after we aly had dinner and a midnight snack, we were driving around that area and stumbled upon the extremely inconspicuous stall. We ordered one full portion for everyone - yanmian noodle complete with another bowl of fish soup. Xue Xiaolu, director of Finding Mr Right, ended up ordering one more full serving.这次的梅州之行中最让我兴奋的应该是吃到了腌面。电影导演张一白,是出了名的美食家,发短信告诉我们梅州市中心有一家面馆,一年多以前他在这里吃过一次,非常好吃。我们的主人打电话问了他的所有的朋友,居然没有人听说过这家店。一天晚上,我们吃过了晚饭和夜宵,开着车在城里瞎转,偶然发现了这个非常不显眼的小摊。我们每人都点了一份套餐——一碗腌面加一碗鱼汤。《北京遇上西雅图》的导演薛晓璐吃完后又点了一份。That night, I texted a good friend of mine in the ed States, whose hometown is Meizhou, about this noodle shop and he replied: ;Yanmian is available at every snack stand.;那天晚上,我给一个身在美国的梅州朋友发短信,告诉他那家好吃的面店,他回复说:“腌面其实在每个小吃摊上都吃得到”。Never predict the flavor of food served by the glamour of the venue, or lack thereof.永远都不要低估提供美食的餐馆的魅力。Last but certainly not least is Mama#39;s Red Wine, which is my personal translation of ;niang jiu; (niang means mother). It is similar to many local Chinese brews but much sweeter. Distilled from sticky rice and well water, it is traditionally brewed by the matriarch of the household.最后要说的是娘酒。它跟许多中国产的啤酒差不多但要甜得多。娘酒一般都是家里的妇女将糯米和井水进行蒸馏以后酿造出来的。Nowadays there are plenty of brands and they vary slightly in taste. But invariably they remind me of red wine made from grapes. One sip and I#39;m transported to the land of hospitality where people may have endured much hardship but have retained their friendly nature.现在娘酒有很多个品牌,味道略有不同。但娘酒总让我想起葡萄酒。轻抿一口,我似乎就被送到了那片好客的土地上,那里的人们历经磨难,却依然保持着淳朴的民风。 /201401/274343

Australia#39;s only island state is often overlooked in favor of splashy sights like Sydney or the outback. Tasmania is countrified and slow-paced; accepted wisdom likens it to Britain in the 1950s. Certainly, it has a throwbackish charm, with low buildings and wide-open spaces. One facet of life here, though, is a distinct departure from ration-strapped postwar England: the food. Imagine slabs of perfectly marbled steak from traditional cattle breeds, stone fruits picked from local orchards, sweet wild scallops plucked out of clean, ice-cold waters. 在澳大利亚,悉尼等内陆地区的曼妙景致常常让人忘却了那里还有塔斯马尼亚这个地方。塔斯马尼亚是澳大利亚唯一的岛屿州,淳朴的乡村气息和悠闲慵懒的慢节奏生活常常让人不禁联想起20世纪50年代的英国。当然,低矮的建筑物、开阔的视野也增添了它的复古韵味。不过,这里还有另一面的生活完全不同于战后缺衣少粮的英格兰:那就是美食。传统养殖带来的完美雪花牛排,采自当地果园的核果,清澈冰冷的水底捞出的甘甜野生扇贝,想想就让人垂涎。Tony Scherer, who raises heirloom vegetables in Tasmania, sees stronger parallels between the island today and California in the 1970s. He worked on the West Coast when Alice Waters was building the farm-to-table movement. #39;I feel that same energy here that was about back then,#39; he explained. #39;It#39;s not a big corporate culture, mainly a cottage industry.#39; 在塔斯马尼亚打理家传蔬菜园的托尼·谢勒(Tony Scherer)认为今天的塔斯马尼亚更像是20世纪70年代的美国加州。当艾丽丝·沃特斯(Alice Waters)发起“从农场到餐桌”运动时,谢勒正好在美国西海岸工作。“如今在这里我感觉到和当年一样的活力,”他解释道,“这并不是一种大企业文化,它关乎的是小企业小作坊。”The focus is generally on quality rather than quantity. For instance, the island#39;s 200 vineyards produced less than 1% of Australia#39;s total wine output by volume in 2013; Tasmanian vintages, however, comprised at least a quarter of the country#39;s #39;A#39; grade wines, according to the trade group Wine Tasmania. In the seafood industry, you have people like Mark Eather, a Hobart-based fisherman who adheres to the Japanese practice of ike jime. The point is to catch and kill fish as quickly and painlessly as possible, thereby preventing stress hormones from tainting the flesh. 在塔斯马尼亚,人们关注的焦点通常是质量而非数量。举例而言,虽然2013年全岛200个葡萄园的葡萄酒产量不到澳大利亚总产量的1%,但是据行业组织Wine Tasmania的数据,这里“A级”葡萄酒的数量占到了澳洲总数的至少四分之一。在海鲜行业,有像马克·伊瑟(Mark Eather)这样的渔夫,来自霍巴特市的伊瑟严格遵守一种名为“ikejime”的日本方式,力求和杀鱼的过程越快越好、鱼受的痛苦越少越好,以减少鱼在此过程中分泌的应激激素污染鱼肉。“我有强迫症,” 伊瑟说,“我不想给买家有缺陷的鱼。”But, until the last several years, it was challenging to lure even the most die-hard foodies to this garden of eating -- for good reason. #39;Tasmania was widely known for having the best produce in the nation, but the worst chefs,#39; explained local food writer Matthew Evans. That changed with the establishment of new farm-to-table restaurants and cooking schools around the state. 不过,直到几年前,这个美食天堂却连最痴迷于吃的美食家也吸引不来。理由倒也很充分。“大家都知道塔斯马尼亚的食材是全澳最好的,但厨师却是最差的,”当地美食作家马修·伊万斯(Matthew Evans)解释说。随着新型农场直送餐厅和烹饪学校的涌现,情况发生了改变。#39;Tasmania may seem like a paradise now, but it has huge potential to be even more than it is today,#39; said former Sydney resident Rodney Dunn, who moved to the island five years ago to start the Agrarian Kitchen, a cooking school situated on a 5-acre farm. “塔斯马尼亚现在可能真的像个天堂了,不过它仍有巨大的潜力可以挖掘,”罗德尼·邓恩(Rodney Dunn)说,他之前住在悉尼,五年前搬到岛上,在一个面积五英亩的农场里开了所名为Agrarian Kitchen的烹饪学校。The culinary destinations highlighted here are well worth a pilgrimage from the mainland. They#39;re scattered around Tasmania, from Hobart, the capital city on the southern tip, to Launceston in the north. It#39;s easy to rent a car, and the drives through rolling, craggy countryside are so scenic you might not want them to end -- until you get hungry. Andrew McIntosh/Tourism Tasmania农场同时也是烹饪学校Agrarian Kitchen下面介绍的精美食目的地非常值得你从澳洲大陆来岛一游。它们分布在从岛南端的首府霍巴特到北边的朗塞斯顿的各个地方。在岛上租车非常方便,你可以驾车穿过绵延起伏而崎岖的乡村,路边的景色美得让你不愿停下,直到你的肚子咕咕作响。An Edible Education 美食课堂Unassuming and bespectacled, Mr. Dunn was a magazine editor before he and his wife, Severine, decamped to Tasmania and set up Agrarian Kitchen in a former schoolhouse an hour#39;s drive from Hobart. Their primary offering is a daylong class that starts with foraging and picking produce -- there are peach, apple and pear trees on the property, as well as pens for chickens and pigs. The afternoon is spent cooking modern Australian food in the professional-grade kitchen. The syllabus might include working with freshly foraged truffles, skimming cream from the milk of a cow that lives nearby or learning the nuances of the on-site wood-burning oven. About 0 a person for a one-day course, 650 Lachlan Rd., Lachlan, theagrariankitchen.com 谦逊有礼的邓恩戴着副眼镜,来这里之前是一名杂志编辑。他和妻子塞芙琳(Severine)在离霍巴特一个小时车程的一处旧校舍里创立了Agrarian Kitchen烹饪学校。他们开设的主要是一个一日课程:早上从寻找、挑选农产品开始,这里有桃树、苹果树和梨树,还养了鸡和猪;下午在一个专业级厨房里学习现代澳洲菜肴的烹制。课程可能还包括加工新采的松露,从附近奶牛挤出的奶中撇掉奶皮,学习现场燃木炉子的细微差别。一日课程每人学费约360美元;地址:650 Lachlan Rd., Lachlan;网址:theagrariankitchen.com。Carnivore#39;s Delights 食肉者们的大爱#39;We have the most natural produce in the country,#39; said Canadian expat and restaurateur Kim Seagram. #39;That#39;s the nice thing about Tasmania being 15 years behind the rest of the world.#39; “我们有全澳最天然的农产品,”从加拿大移居而来的餐馆老板金姆·西格莱姆(Kim Seagram)说,“塔斯马尼亚比世界其他地方落后15年真是件好事。”Her two restaurants are showcases for local ingredients. Stillwater, which she set up after falling in love with Tasmania on a brief vacation, is housed in a 1830s mill in the historic town of Launceston. Rough-hewed wooden beams decorate the dining room#39;s walls and ceilings; the eatery has a terrace overlooking the river and a casual wine bar where guests can sample Tasmanian vintages. The evolves with the seasons and might feature seared scallops or slow-roasted salt-grass lamb from Flinders Island, off Tasmania#39;s northern coast, where blustery weather deposits salt on pastures. Chris CrerarStillwater餐厅的一道扇贝菜肴她的两家餐馆正是当地食材的展示窗口。她在塔斯马尼亚的一次短暂度假旅行后爱上了这里,然后在历史名城朗塞斯顿市一处19世纪30年代的磨坊里开了一家名为Stillwater的餐馆。餐厅 壁和天花板用粗犷的木梁装饰,餐厅露台可以俯瞰河流,在休闲葡萄酒吧里客人们还能品尝塔斯马尼亚葡萄酒。餐厅菜单会根据季节进行调整,客人们有机会品尝到烤扇贝、来自北岸边上弗林德斯岛(Flinders Island)的 烤盐草羔羊肉,那里的大风天气使盐沉积到了草地上。Black Cow Bistro focuses on exceptional meat from the region -- the island#39;s damp climate is well-suited to raising traditional, flavorful breeds of cattle such as Angus and Hereford, and no growth promotants can be used in Tasmania. Sample dry-aged, grass-fed steaks in its casual, Art Deco-era setting. Stillwater: 2 Bridge Rd., Launceston, stillwater.net.au; Black Cow Bistro: 70 George St., Launceston, blackcowbistro.com.au Black Cow Bistro餐厅专注于该地区非同凡响的肉品。岛上潮湿的天气很适合饲养传统的、肉质鲜美的牲畜,像安格斯(Angus)牛和赫里福德(Hereford)牛,而且在塔斯马尼亚不允许使用促生长剂。你可以在它装饰艺术气息浓郁的休闲餐厅品尝到取自草料饲养牛的干式熟成牛排。Stillwater地址:2 Bridge Rd., Launceston、网址:stillwater.net.au;Black Cow Bistro地址:70 George St., Launceston、网址:blackcowbistro.com.au。Wee Winery Sylvain MarchandD#39;Meure葡萄园小小酿酒坊D#39;Meure vineyard, just over 20 miles south of Hobart, is typical of the tiny, hands-on operations that characterize Tasmania#39;s winemaking scene. Former lawyer Dirk Meure packs 8,000 vines into his tiny, single-hectare plot -- double the typical planting density in Burgundy, France. #39;The vines have to struggle to survive,#39; he explained. #39;But we don#39;t have to irrigate and upset the natural balance.#39; A warm climate elsewhere in Australia, he claimed, rushes ripening, and acid is often added to wine to balance the sweetness, but that#39;s not the case here. Mr. Meure produces just 300 cases each year of high-quality Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Contact the owner through the vineyard#39;s website to book a private tasting. 16 Fleurtys Lane, Birchs Bay, dmeure.com.au D#39;Meure葡萄园位于霍巴特以南20英里开外的地方,具有典型的塔斯马尼亚风格:规模非常小,手工操作。曾经是律师的德克·缪尔(Dirk Meure)把8,000株葡萄树塞进了他只有一公顷大的小小园子里,这个密度是法国勃艮第典型种植密度的两倍。“葡萄树不得不想办法努力生存,”他解释说,“不过我们也不必灌溉,去破坏自然的平衡。”他说,澳大利亚其他地方温热的天气会催熟果实,所以需要在葡萄酒中加入酸来平衡甜味,不过在塔斯马尼亚就不用。缪尔每年只出品300箱高品质的灰比诺(Pinot Gris)和黑比诺(Pinot Gris)。有兴趣的读者可以通过葡萄园网站联系园主预约品尝。地址:16 Fleurtys Lane, Birchs Bay;网址:dmeure.com.au。Bubble Rep 起泡酒的代表Widely acknowledged among the wine industry as Tasmania#39;s premier sparkling wine, Jansz is one of the few marques imported to the U.S. from the swath of vineyards in the Tamar Valley, close to Launceston. Co-founded in the 1980s by the Louis Roederer Champagne house, Jansz pioneered a Champagne-like process wryly known as Methode Tasmanoise. Today, winemaker Natalie Fryer masterminds a full program, including a commercial rose and Brut plus small-batch single vintages. Taste a clutch of her creations in the wine room (and pause to look at the cellar door made from old Tasmanian celery-top pine, a wood now so scarce it can#39;t be legally harvested). 12168 Pipers Brook Rd., Pipers Brook, jansz.com.au 简茨(Jansz)在葡萄酒行业被公认是塔斯马尼亚最好的起泡葡萄酒,它也是少数几个从朗塞斯顿附近的塔马谷(Tamar Valley)葡萄园区出口到美国的品牌之一。简茨在20世纪80年代由Louis Roederer Champagne香槟酒厂联合开发,它开辟了一种被戏称为“Methode Tasmanoise”(塔斯马尼亚法)工艺的香槟酒式酿造方法。如今,酿酒师娜塔莉·弗莱尔(Natalie Fryer)制定了一整套的酿造方案,包括商业化的玫瑰口味简茨、香槟酒、还有少量单一年份酒。在葡萄酒屋可以品尝她的一系列创造,(还可以参观一下用老塔斯马尼亚芹叶松制作的酒窖大门,这种木头非常的稀少,合法地采伐也不可以。)地址:12168 Pipers Brook Rd., Pipers Brook;网址:jansz.com.au。Sushi Deluxe 寿司也奢华Born and brought up in Japan, where he studied sushi-making, Masaaki Koyama moved to Tasmania#39;s Huon Valley, southwest of Hobart, after marrying a local. He brought along his expertise in high-end hand rolls. Mr. Koyama uses local fish and locally grown wasabi in his sushi and sashimi. His closet-sized cafe, Masaaki#39;s Sushi, in the village of Geeveston, is only open on Friday and Saturday. If you can#39;t sample his creations then, pick up the same treats at the chef#39;s stall in Farm Gate Market on Sunday morning. 20b Church St., Geeveston, 61-408-712-340 Masaaki Koyama生在日本长在日本,并在那里学习了寿司制作技艺。他和霍巴特西南部休恩峡谷(Huon Valley)的一名女子结婚后就移居到了这里,并把做高端寿司的手艺也带了过来。Koyama用当地的鱼和芥末酱来做寿司和生鱼片。他的寿司店Masaaki#39;s Sushi面积很小,位于吉夫斯顿村(Geeveston),只在周五和周六营业。如果你这两个时间都没法去他的店里,也可以周日上午来Farm Gate Market市场他的摊位前,也能品尝到他的手艺。地址:20b Church St., Geeveston;电话:61-408-712-340。The Chef#39;s Table 大厨的餐桌Melbourne veteran Steve Cumper arrived in the hamlet of Cygnet six years ago and snapped up a shabby cafe in a historic 1912 building. He transformed it into the Red Velvet Lounge, a casual bistro with deep-red walls and rustic wooden tables. He#39;s accumulated plaudits and awards (including Country Style magazine#39;s Australian Country Chef of the Year). It#39;s well worth the hourlong drive from Hobart to experience his cooking for yourself -- Mr. Cumper is known for his sourdough bs and other homestyle baked goods, as well as relishes and jams, many of whose ingredients are sourced from nearby apple and cherry orchards. 24 Mary St., Cygnet, theredvelvetlounge.com.au 在墨尔本居住了多年的史蒂夫·昆佩尔(Steve Cumper)六年前来到小天鹅村(Cygnet)买下了一家简陋餐厅,这家餐厅开在一座建于1912年的老房子中。他把餐厅改造成了名为Red Velvet Lounge的休闲小酒馆。酒馆 面涂成深红色,里面放置着淳 的木桌。他的小酒馆已经为他赢得了不少赞誉和奖项(包括Country Style杂志颁发的“澳大利亚年度乡村主厨奖”(Australian Country Chef of the Year))。它值得你驱车一个小时从霍巴特来到这里亲自品尝他的手艺,最出名的是他的酸酵母面包和其他家庭烘焙品,还有各种开胃小菜和果酱,其中许多原料均取自附近的苹果园和樱桃园。地址:24 Mary St., Cygnet;网址:theredvelvetlounge.com.au。Sweet Treatment 甜蜜的款待After apprenticing in London with star chef Angela Hartnett, Alistair Wise returned home to Tasmania and opened his own bakery. Sweet Envy lies on a quiet residential street in the suburb of North Hobart. With his shaven head and abundance of tattoos, Mr. Wise resembles an army reservist more than a chef -- until he starts chatting about food, specifically desserts. Fruit grown in Tasmania#39;s cool climate is less sugary and has a rich mouthfeel, he explained, so it holds up beautifully in the ice creams, tarts, pies and cakes he sells in the minimalist, all-white space. On warm days, stop and sit on stools arranged in the alley next door to idle over a coffee and a cupcake. 341 Elizabeth St., North Hobart, sweetenvy.com 在伦敦做完明星主厨安吉拉·哈特尼特(Angela Hartnett)的学徒后,阿利斯泰·怀斯(Alistair Wise)回到塔斯马尼亚开了自己的烘焙坊。Sweet Envy坐落在北霍巴特郊区一处安静的住宅区街道上。怀斯剃个光头,身上到处是纹身,要不是开口谈美食、特别是甜品,他看上去更像一个陆军预备役军人而不是厨师。生长在塔斯马尼亚凉爽天气里的水果甜份较少,口感丰富,他解释说,所以很适合做他店里卖的冰激凌、果馅饼、派和蛋糕。他的店四白落地,透露出极简装饰风格。在暖和的天气里,不妨来到店中,在店旁小路上放置的凳子上坐坐,来杯咖啡和一个纸托蛋糕打发时光。地址:341 Elizabeth St., North Hobart;网址:sweetenvy.com。 /201405/294620

It started about six months ago, with a smiley face here and there, a sequence of pictograph red hearts when friends would send baby pictures or a string of blown kisses to say good night. I especially liked the face with a toothy, uncomfortable-looking grimace: ;Yikes,; it seemed to say. Perfect for ;I#39;m sorry I#39;m late!; or ;Eek, it#39;s 1 p.m. and I just woke up.;这开始于六个月之前,一张笑脸到处都是,朋友发婴儿照片给你时会附上一串红心符号,或者用一串亲吻的符号来代表“晚安”。我特别喜欢这样一张露着牙齿,表情不爽的鬼脸,好像在说“哎呀”。它正好可以用来代表“抱歉我迟到了!”或者“呀,都下午一点了,我刚醒。”Eventually I was replacing words with characters, adding a series of flexing biceps to the encouraging ;you can do it!; text. Then one day I spent a full 10 minutes obsessing over the perfect way to say ;I#39;m a writer. I don#39;t do math; in a message to my accountant: [Girl symbol] (meaning me) + [Pen and paper] (writer) + [calculator] (math) ;?!?!?; Right, it doesn#39;t sound so complicated. But by finding said emoji, putting them in sequence and spacing them out, I could have typed the statement 17 times. Mid-composition, I got a phone call from a source I had been waiting to talk to. I pressed ignore.最后,我用符号代替了文字,发消息鼓励别人“你能做到!”之后一定加上一堆二头肌的符号。有一天我花了10分钟给我的会计发短信,想用最酷炫的方式告诉她“我是作家,我不懂数学”,结果是:[女孩](代表我)+[纸笔](代表作家)+[计算器](代表数学)“?!?!?”。是的,这听上去并不复杂,但是,我找到相应的表情符号,用一定顺序排列,并用空格隔开,所有这些所需的时间,够我用文字敲出这句话17次了。写到一半时,一个我等着采访的消息源给我打来电话,我却按了拒绝接听键。This was emoji chaos; it had to stop.这就是emoji带来的混乱,不能再这样下去了。The roots of smiley faces and emoticons go back to the 1880s, but the story of the emoji, those little pictorial icons on your cellphone, began in Japan in the mid-1990s when it was added as a special feature to a brand of pagers popular with teenagers. It wasn#39;t until 2008 that a uniform emoji alphabet was created (the idea was to minimize inconsistency across platforms), and Apple adopted it in 2011, adding it to its iOS5 operating system.这些笑脸与表情符号的根源可以追溯到19世纪80年代,但是你手机里这些emoji符号则发源于20世纪90年代中期的日本,由一个在青少年中非常流行的寻呼机品牌首先用来给自己增加点特色。到2008年才有了统一的emoji“字母表”(用意在于减少各种平台中的不一致),2011年,苹果公司使用了它们,把它们加入到iOS5操作系统中去。But what was once the domain of tech geeks and Honshu tweens has infected the masses. Emoji was crowned as this year#39;s top-trending word by the Global Language Monitor, and it was added to the Oxford English Dictionary (funny, because it#39;s a word that describes the concept of not actually using words). There is now a blog, Emojanalysis, that purports to psychoanalyze users#39; most frequently used emoji (take a screenshot and send); a beta site, Emoj.li, for the first emoji-only social network (yes, as in only emoji); and the Unicode Consortium, the nonprofit devoted to emoji standardization across platforms, recently said it would add 250 emoji to Apple, Microsoft and Google products. I seriously considered adding an emoji sequence to my résumé this week.这种符号原本属于技术狂人和日本少年,如今却影响了大众。“全球语言监督”机构把;emoji;这个词评为今年的最流行语,牛津英语词典还收入了这个单词(这很有趣,因为它是一个用来描述并不真正使用单词的概念的单词)。有一个客名叫;emoji”(Emojanalysis),通过对用户最常使用的符号,对用户进行心理分析(可以截屏并发送给它);名叫Emoj.li的试用版网站是第一个只使用emoji符号(是的,只有emoji)的社交网络;Unicode协定免费令emoji符号在各平台上实现了标准化,最近它宣布,将在苹果、微软和谷歌产品中加入250个新的emoji符号。我认真地考虑这星期在我的简历里也加上一段用emoji写的话。;A guy just asked me out in emoji [wineglass] + [boy-girl faces] + [?],; a friend told me, when I asked if she thought we had reached an emoji tipping point. ;We carried on an emoji-only conversation for about 45 minutes.;我问一个朋友,emoji表情符的使用是不是已经到了临界点了,她告诉我,“一个男人用emoji‘[高脚杯]+[男孩-女孩脸]+[问号]约我出去,后来我们就只用emoji聊了45分钟。”According to the website Emojitracker, which uses Twitter to calculate emoji usage, people are averaging 250 to 350 emoji tweets a second. Smiley faces and hearts abound, but there are more complicated sequences, too. There#39;s emoji as punctuation [excited face], as emphasis [sob], as a replacement for words (;Can#39;t wait for [palm trees] [sun] [swim]!;) or to replace words altogether. (The accompanying emoji graphic, recently sent by a friend, describes a weekend date that started out well, including a trip to the vineyards of Sonoma County, but then ended with her realization that the relationship would go no further. Hence: a frustrated face symbol.)Emojitracker网站统计了Twitter上的emoji使用情况,发现在Twitter上,人们平均每秒使用250到350个emoji符号。笑脸和心形符号用得很多,但也有一些更为复杂的序列。人们用emoji作为标点[兴奋的脸],作为强调[哭泣的脸],代替文字(“等不及去[棕榈树][太阳][游泳]!”)或者用来代替许多文字(文中附上的emoji表情图是一个朋友最近发来的,用来描述周末的约会进展顺利,去了索诺玛郡的葡萄园旅行,但后来她发现两人的关系不可能再进一步。于是出现了一张沮丧的脸)。There is emoji for when you don#39;t really know what to say, but don#39;t want to be rude by not responding [Thumbs up], and for when you just don#39;t really want to respond at all. ;I love emoji because I don#39;t like to make small talk,; one woman said. There are emoji sequences to express real-life concepts, too. ;In the wake of the Hobby Lobby ruling,; said Caroline McCarthy, a start-up consultant, ;I created an emoji sequence for ‘vasectomy.#39; ; It was: [scissors], [eggplant], [screaming face].在你不知道该说什么好,但是不做回答又显得太粗鲁的时候,也可以使用emoji符号[大拇指朝上],还有的符号适合你根本不想回答对方的时候。“我喜欢emoji是因为我不喜欢闲聊,”一个女人说。一串emoji符号也可以用来表达真实生活中的概念。“在关于霍比·罗比连锁店(Hobby Lobby)的判决出来之后,”创业顾问卡洛琳·麦卡锡(Caroline McCarthy)说,“我用emoji组成了一个短语,代表‘输精管切除术#39;。是[剪刀],[茄子],[尖叫]。”In their short life, emoji managed to find an exceptional cultural range: One Internet wit put out an emoji translation of Beyoncé#39;s ;Drunk in Love,; and an emoji-only version of ;Moby Dick,; called ;Emoji Dick,; was recently accepted into the Library of Congress. Legal experts have even discussed whether an emoji death threat [gun and face] could be admissible in court. ;I#39;m not sure you can really speak of it as a full-fledged language yet,; said Ben Zimmer, a linguist, ;but it does seem to have fascinating combinatorial possibilities. Any sort of symbolic system, when it#39;s used for communication, is going to develop dialects.;在它诞生后的短短时间里,emoji构成了一个独特的文化圈子:一个互联网达人用emoji表情翻译了碧昂斯(Beyoncé)的《醉在爱里》(Drunk in Love),还有emoji版的《白鲸》(Moby Dick)被称为;Emoji Dick;,最近被国会图书馆收藏。法律专家甚至讨论用emoji符号表达的死亡威胁[与脸]在法庭上是否可以作为据。“我不能确定目前是否能将它作为一种成熟的语言,”语言学家本·齐默(Ben Zimmer)说,“但是它的确具有极为迷人的组合能力。任何符号系统被用于交流的时候,都会发展为一种特色语言。”As with any new medium, there are growing pains. ;Even with my glasses on, I can#39;t see those little things very well,; said Ruth Ann Harnisch, 64, a writer and philanthropist. Emoji also tend to mistranslate when sent between platforms, or they get jumbled if you don#39;t have the right font. So while a heart may be a heart on your phone, it may end up as a series of glitch squares on Facebook or if you your email in Chrome. (Conducting interviews about emoji, over multiple platforms, was a comedy of misinterpretations.)正如任何新媒介一样,emoji也经历着成长的烦恼。“就算戴上眼镜,我也看不清这些小东西,”64岁的作家、慈善家罗斯·安·哈尼斯奇(Ruth Ann Harnisch)说。Emoji在不同平台上可能会导致错误转换,字体不对也有可能导致乱码。在你的手机上可能显示的是一颗心,在Facebook上或者用Chrome浏览器读邮件时,可能就成了一个错误的小方块(我为emoji做采访时,要使用各种平台,简直是一场误读的喜剧)。The current emoji package has been criticized as too limited: not enough emoji diversity, and in the height of the summer vacation season, not even a lobster icon (no crabs, either). There#39;s also a certain subjective quality to the sequences. Depending on whether you think the little face with the teardrop on his forehead is sweating or crying, your friend may have either just been dumped or been to SoulCycle. ;I think it#39;s clear that a rough grammar exists for emoji, or is at least emerging,; said Colin Rothfels, a developer who maintains a Twitter feed, @anagramatron, that collects tweets (and thus emoji) that are anagrams.人们批评目前emoji的表情包太有限:不够多样化,在暑假的时候,连龙虾和螃蟹的符号都没有。符号的使用也有主观性。你觉得那张脸上带水珠的小脸是代表流汗还是流泪呢?不知道给你发这个表情符的朋友是被人甩了,还是去健身房了。“我想emoji表情符中显然存在一种粗糙的语法,至少这种语法正在形成,”开发者柯林·罗斯菲尔斯(Colin Rothfels)说,他的Twitter账号是@anagramatron,专门收集各种由颠倒字母(也包括emoji表情)顺序而构成的Twitter句子。The Unicode Consortium, the agency that governs this sort of thing, is in the process of rolling out its new emoji icons — including a hot pepper (hot or spicy) and a man in a business suit levitating (jump). And yet, more options may only exacerbate a problem well known to those fluent in emoji-speak (or at least this person fluent in it): With no standardized keyboard, how are we supposed to sort through all of those options?管理这类事宜的Unicode协定目前正在发布新的emoji符号——其中包括辣椒符号(好辣),以及一个穿西的男人身在半空(跳)。不过,更多的选择可能会令擅长使用emoji交谈的人们(至少是我这个擅长用emoji交谈的人)本来就有的问题变得更严重:没有标准化的键盘,我们该怎样查看整理这些新的选择?It#39;s enough to make anyone want to [scream face].这真让人想要[尖叫]。 /201409/326804

What do you get if you cross a waffle with a doughnut? It#39;s no joke如果你将华夫饼干与甜甜圈混合会得到什么?这不是开玩笑。NOT all marriages are happy, but Alex Hernandez thinks that the union of a waffle and a doughnut will be.并不是所有的婚姻都是幸福的,但是亚历克斯·赫尔南德斯认为华夫饼和甜甜圈的组合会很幸福。The owner of Waffles Cafe in Chicago starting selling what he calls wonuts in April.芝加哥的华夫咖啡馆店主于四月开始售卖他叫做wonuts的甜品。They are deep-fried waffles, topped with icing and multicoloured sprinkles.它们是油炸的华夫饼,表面加上糖衣和五颜六色的巧克力屑。Daily sales went from 24 to 600 within two days.日销售量在两天之内从24猛增至600。Buzzfeed, a website, called the new snack proof that a benevolent Food God exists.网站Buzzfeed把这种新型小甜品叫做仁慈食神存在的据。Hybrid dishes are fashionable.混合菜肴很流行。The wonut follows the cronut, a croissant-donut combination that was invented in New York last year and is now being fried and munched in Taiwan, South Korea, Brazil, BritainWonut是在牛角甜甜圈—纽约于去年发明的一款牛角面包与甜甜圈的搭配组合之后推出的一款新甜品,如今已风靡台湾、南韩、巴西和英国,and even France, where you#39;d think diners would be fussier.甚至连对饮食很挑剔的法国都钟情于它。Many countries indulge in culinary mixing, but Americans, who love both novelty and food, are especially keen on it.许多国家都喜欢混合烹饪,而美国人这种既喜欢新奇又喜欢食物的人对此尤其钟爱。Burger King#39;s Croissan#39;Wich is a croissant-sandwich mix.汉堡王的Croissan#39;Wich是羊角面包和三明治的混合。Taco Bell#39;s quesarito is a beef burrito wrapped in a quesadilla.塔可钟的quesarito是外面裹有油炸玉米粉饼的牛肉卷饼。Jamp;D#39;s Foods produces Baconnaise, bacon-flavoured mayonnaise that is, oddly, vegetarian and kosher-certified.Jamp;D的食品产业生产Baconnaise—培根风味的蛋黄酱,但有趣的是,犹太教和素食主义者都适用。Carl#39;s Jr is testing a bisnut, a cross between a biscuit and a doughnut. Not everyone is impressed.卡乐星正在测试一款bisnut—小饼干和甜甜圈的组合。Leave it to fast food to think of new and exciting ways to make you have to buy two seats on an airplane.并不是每个人都会被打动。在快餐上使用这个点子,想出新的有趣的方法来让你不得不在一架飞机上买两个位子。A breakfast-dessert hybrid.早餐混合甜点。You#39;re barely awake and you#39;re aly getting all your calories for the day, grumbles Jeff Sorensen of Uproxx, an online magazine.你还在打着瞌睡,就已经摄入了一天所需的卡路里, 一家在线杂志Uproxx的杰夫·索伦森抱怨说。Such innovation has a long history.这种创新历史悠久。Blacks who migrated north after the Civil War served African-spiced fried chicken with European waffles.内战之后迁移到北方的黑人把欧洲华夫饼和非洲五香炸鸡混合在了一起。In the 1910s, Americans drenched German frankfurters with Mexican chili to make chili dogs.在20世纪10年代,美国人把德国法兰克福香肠浸透了墨西哥红辣椒,做成了辣椒热。More recently, New Yorkers drew on the collective genius of generations of Jewish and Italian cooks to produce: the pizza bagel.最近,纽约人民利用世代传下来的犹太和意大利的烹饪智慧制造出了:披萨百吉饼。Because America is a nation of immigrants, it has many traditions to mine.因为美国是一个移民国家,因此它拥有许多个人习俗。But because many cooks try to please everyone, ethnic recipes have often been tweaked so as not to offend unfamiliar palates.但是因为大部分食物都是要取悦所有人,民族食谱经常会被改造以满足不同的人的口味。You take something that#39;s different, and you make it similar, says Roger Horowitz of the Hagley Museum and Library in Wilmington, Delaware.你拿来与不同的东西,然后把它变成你熟悉的东西,特拉华州海格利物馆和威明顿图书馆的罗格·霍洛威茨说。That has often involved adding sugar and fat, which everyone likes.这通常包括加入糖和油脂,这是大部分人都喜爱的。The wonut illustrates another grand old American tradition, too:Wonut也说明了另一种极为重要的美国古老习俗:the layering of mountains of different types of food in a single dish, which goes back at least to the invention of the ice-cream sundae 120 years ago.在一道菜中包含了层层叠叠的不同食物,这至少可以追溯到120年前圣代冰淇淋的发明。Good ideas sp fast, so hybrid hits are soon copied.好点子传播的很快,因此混合食品的创意很快就有人山寨了。Crumbs Bake Shop, an ailing and pricey New York-based chain of cupcake shops, was one of several to introduce variations of the cronut.Crumbs Bake Shop是一家总部在纽约的杯形蛋糕连锁店,价格昂贵而且正面临着困难。Alas its crumbnut failed to save the business, and Crumbs closed its doors on July 7th.它是引入多品种牛角甜甜圈的几家店之一,但可悲的是它的crumbnut未能挽回日渐下滑的生意,并于7月7日关门了。As for Mr Hernandez, he is looking to open wonut shops in Chicago, Los Angeles and Phoenix.对于赫尔南德斯来说,他准备在芝加哥、洛杉矶和凤凰城开wonut商店。But he knows that the wonut will not be novel for long, so he is aly working on his next creation:但是他知道wonut不会新奇很长时间,因此他正在致力于下一个创新:a waffle pizza, which perhaps he should call the piffle.华夫饼披萨,他可能会把这种食品叫做priffle。 /201408/317190

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